The morning was partly cloudy and cold, with the temperature down to a mean 5°C, as I pulled out of Little Rock Resort at 8am. I had 460 ks to go. 160 were going to be dirt!
My first stop was the local Chemist, as I was awoken at 3am by some kind of stomach bug. Unfortunately, in small town fashion, they only opened at 8:30, and I decided to take my chances!
The road to the next town, Wepener, was the usual potholed senario. I pulled in there to filled up and find out if there was a Chemist. “Yes”, said the petrol attendant and gave me directions. Turned out to be a Pakistani ‘health’ shop. No luck there!
I carried on to Zastron and amazingly found what I was looking for. Relief!
40ks from there I crossed the Orange River on an old steel trestle bridge and headed for Barkly East. As expected, the road conditions improved and the scenery became spectacular! Lots of curves, with 300m drops to wide, rivers! The first signs of the ‘Berg appeared on the horizon.
After 300ks, at 12am, I pulled into Barkly East to fill up. I was feeling better now, but slightly woozy. I didn’t get rid of this feeling for days. May have been the altitude?
From Barkly East I took the dirt road to Maclear, via Nuade’s Neck. Again, the scenery was stunning. High sandstone cliffs, clear rivers, with the ‘Berg as a backdrop.
The road climbed up and up and was covered in a fine slippery sand. I kept overshooting the corners, with scary results. Often the only salvation was to open the throttle (against all instincts!). Then I realised why this a
was happening! The roads all had a negative camber, as they had been cut out of the mountainside.
After 60km (at under 40km/hr!) I passed through the very sleepy hamlet of Rhodes, where a few artists seem to eek out a living. Forever upwards went the road. I passed several traditional shepards, wrapped in blankets, tending sheep and cows. The surface slowly deteriorated and my speed was now well below 40km/hr mostly. The kilos took ages to pass! Then I ran into a road grader on a very steep section and now had to contend with a foot deep of soft soil and rocks over the road for about 500m. Not so far? A different story on a steep slope with a loaded bike! I nearly came off several times. The driver apologised and promised that it was ok up ahead.
Eventually, after 90km(!) I reached the top of Naude’s Neck at 2500m AMSL (Sani Pass is at 2875m) and passed the turn off to what was claimed to be the highest lodge in South Africa. It felt like being on top of the world. The feeling of complete isolation was almost overwhelming as I looked down onto the other local ‘Berg peaks and realised how far away I was from anywhere! (see http://samountainpasses.co.za/EasternCape/EasternCapePasses/NaudesNeckPass/tabid/1297/Default.aspx)
It was now 2pm! (I had expected to be in Maclear after 2hrs! And a rain storm was threatening. Clouds come up quickly in the ‘Berg! Rain here on these inclines would be a nightmare.
Note road zigzagging down from top.
View a short video of descent-side of pass.
The road off the top was covered in shales and the speed was slow, but the scenery. Whow! After a while I started to enter commercial forested areas and the road flattened out, but the surface remained poor.
At around 4pm I made it into Maclear, stopped to buy some refreshments and supplies, then headed down 20kms of glorius tarmac to Ugie with the sun starting to go down. The day had covered 460ks and taken 8hrs in the saddle!
I booked into a fantastic retro guest house, which once was an orphanage for girls! I was too late to book in for supper and ate a snack bar instead. I didn’t feel like food at all, as the elevation and constant jolting had made me quite nauseous.
I turned in early and slept like a log.
What an amazing day!